The historical center
When it comes to the City of Seven Hills, the notion of a historical center is not a good fit. Indeed, the whole of Rome is a historical center, and walking around the city is like traveling back in time, changing eras like one changes clothes. We can define the historical center by a process of elimination: it is not Ancient Rome, it is not papal Rome and it is not the Rome of the dolce vita. The historical center is a small patch sandwiched between the Tiber, Campidoglio – Capitoline Hill and Via del Corso. It is the Rome of delightful contrasts: cobbled streets and popular corners alternate with majestic palaces and sumptuous Baroque churches, in which Caravaggio left his inimitable mark. It is tempting to say it is the most authentic Rome, but that would not do justice to a city that defies classification and has as many souls as it does hills.
View of the Vittoriano (Victor Emmanuel II Monument) from the terrace of Six Senses Rome
Where to stay
Singer Palace Hotel, One Michelin Key
Six Senses Rome, One Michelin Key
Humility 36, One Michelin Key
Where to eat
Il Pagliaccio, Two Michelin Stars
Idylio by Apreda, One Michelin Star
Il Convivio Troiani, One Michelin Star
Per Me Giulio Terrinoni, One Michelin Star
Pipero Roma, One Michelin Star
Not to be missed
Piazza Navona
Campo de’ Fiori
Pantheon and Piazza della Rotonda
The Ghetto and Via del Portico di Ottavia
Chiesa del Gesù
San Luigi dei Francesi e i dipinti di Caravaggio
Sant’Agostino and its painting by Caravaggio
Art collections of Doria Pamphilj Gallery
Ancient art collections of Palazzo Altemps
The Ancient City
What is the best starting point for exploring the cradle of our civilization? Where it all began: Campidoglio – Capitoline Hill. According to legend, this is where the she-wolf suckled Romulus and Remus. Between the Capitoline Hill, Palatine Hill, and Aventine Hill, the Western World’s most extraordinary civilization was born. Its influence would span three continents for more than a millennium. Here in the heart of civitas and among the world’s most iconic monuments, you will feel the reverberations of almost 3,000 years of history.
Aroma and its remarkable view of the Colosseum
Where to stay
The Inn at the Roman Forum, One Michelin Key
Where to eat
Aroma, 1 MICHELIN Star
Marco Martini Restaurant, One Michelin Star
Not to be missed
Piazza del Campidoglio and Capitoline Museums
Colosseum
Roman Forum
Mercati di Traiano (Trajan’s Markets) and the Imperial Forums
Palatino (Palatine Hill)
Domus Aurea
Basilica San Clemente and its mosaics
Basilica di San Pietro in Vincoli with Michelangelo’s Moses sculpture
Termi di Caracalla (Baths of Caracalla)
Trident, Quirinale, and Villa Borghese
Between the Tiber and Via XX Settembre, we are in the heart of La Grande Bellezza: the Rome of the dolce vita, of Roman Holiday, of luxury boutiques, and of politics. From Piazza del Quirinale, where the President of the Republic resides, you can take in the entire city, but the viewpoint from the Terrazza del Pincio certainly holds its own. A far cry from the Rome of the people; here everything is glitz, glamour, and opulence, and it is no coincidence that the most fabulous (and exclusive) hotels in our selection, the most renowned restaurants, and some of the most extraordinary museums in Italy are concentrated here.
The verdant roof terrace of the Bulgari hotel, with views of Villa Medici
Where to stay
Hotel Vilòn, Two Michelin Keys
JK Place Roma, Two Michelin Keys
Bulgari Hotel Roma, One Michelin Key
Hassler Roma, One Michelin Key
Hotel Eden, Dorchester Collection, One Michelin Key
Hotel Locarno, One Michelin Key
Maalot Roma, One Michelin Key
Portrait Roma, One Michelin Key
Rocco Forte Hotel De La Ville, One Michelin Key
Rocco Forte Hotel De Russie, One Michelin Key
The Hoxton, Rome, One Michelin Key
The St. Regis Rome, One Michelin Key
Where to eat
Acquolina, Two Michelin Stars
All’Oro, One Michelin Star
Imàgo, One Michelin Star
Moma, One Michelin Star
Orma Roma, One Michelin Star
Not to be missed
Trevi Fountain
Spanish Steps and Trinità dei Monti
Pincio Gardens
Villa Borghese and its museums: the Borghese Gallery and the Etruscan Museum of Villa Giulia
Piazza del Popolo and Caravaggio’s paintings in Santa Maria del Popolo
Santa Maria della Vittoria with Bernini’s Ecstasy of St Teresa
Art collections of Palazzo Barberini
Contemporary art at MAXXI
Papal Rome
Cross the Tiber at Castel Sant’Angelo, then follow Via della Conciliazione and you will find yourself in the world’s smallest state – 0.4km2 and fewer than 800 inhabitants – the focal point of a religion that counts 1.3 billion believers. Zooming out a little beyond the Vatican, we are in the rione of Prati, a chic, Art Nouveau neighborhood around Via Cola di Rienzo, a quiet, residential area in the shadow of St Peter’s Dome, known as the “Cupolone.”
From the terrace of La Pergola, night view of St Peter’s Dome
Where to stay
Where to eat
La Pergola, Three Michelin Stars
Enoteca La Torre, Two Michelin Stars
Pulejo, One Michelin Star
Not to be missed
St Peter’s Basilica and the Vatican Museums
Castel Sant’Angelo
Trastevere
Cross the Tiber and you are in Rome’s most iconic working-class neighborhood. Now gentrified, the atmosphere oscillates between touristy and casual chic. Its bohemian beauty, meanwhile, remains intact: the colorful houses, the climbing plants, the old cars, the trattorias with checked tablecloths, and the laundry hung between the buildings draw snap-happy tourists like bees to honey.
A street in Trastevere/tunart/iStock
Where to eat
Glass Hostaria, One Michelin Star
Zia, One Michelin Star
Not to be missed
Santa Maria in Trastevere
A walk on nearby Janiculum Hill at sunset
Monti
In its maze of cobbled streets between the Colosseum and Termini train station, Rome’s oldest district (in Ancient times, it was the notorious Suburra, the stomping ground of Messalina) is now a trendy neighborhood where artists and designers rub shoulders. At once relaxed and vibrant, in Monti hipster culture and historical memory coexist in a unique style. If you love visiting art galleries, up-and-coming designers’ ateliers, and wine bars, this is the neighborhood for you.
There are no Michelin Keys or Stars in Monti, but there are two delightful hotels that embody the spirit of the neighborhood: Casa Monti e Condominio Monti.
Vita notturna in piazza della Madonna dei Monti/nycshooter/iStock
Travel notes
Museums and monuments in alphabetical order:
Barberini Palace – Via delle Quattro Fontane 13
Baths of Caracalla – Viale delle Terme di Caracalla 52
Borghese Gallery – Piazzale Scipione Borghese 5
Capitoline Museums – Piazza del Campidoglio 1
Castel Sant’Angelo – Lungotevere Castello 50
Colosseum – Piazza del Colosseo
Domus Aurea – Viale della Domus Aurea 1
Doria Pamphilj Gallery – Via del Corso 305
MAXXI – Via Guido Reni 4/A
Mercati di Traiano Museo dei Fori Imperiali – Via Quattro Novembre 94
Palatine – Via di San Gregorio 30
Palazzo Altemps – Piazza di Sant’Apollinare 46
Roman Forum – via Sacra (from Piazza del Colosseo)
Vatican Museums – Viale Vaticano
Villa Giulia – Piazzale di Villa Giulia 9
Hero image: Sunset over the Vatican/Vladislav Zolotov/iStock
